Awesome Giorgio Armani SS2014 Collection

Typically I’m a bigger fan of the Fall/Winter styles, but this is a knockout Giorgio Armani collection for next summer. Numerous excellent, soft jackets, some with really outstanding lapel details and interesting gorges; pants that derive gently from the sportier FW2013 collection, and most importantly models who look like they can wear these clothes properly in the real world. There were even some shoes I really liked, which is unusual. Sometimes when you talk to Giorgio Armani boutique staff they will discuss which collections have been strong or weak sellers, but I can already see that SS2014 will be a popular direction, and I’ll personally be picking up several of these items. Awesome collection.

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The Runway vs. Real Life

Earlier today I was reviewing some runway shots from the Armani SS13 Privé collection and it struck me that this is the second time I have seen runway models making Giorgio Armani collections look a bit frumpy. Take a look at the faces of the models in the Paris haute couture show earlier this year to see what I mean (thanks to Vogue Italia for the pictures).

Now I freely admit that not all Giorgio Armani clothing looks great – maybe that is unexpected from someone like me, but even I don’t like every single thing I see on the racks or in the collections, especially some of the more patterned and obvious clothing. But some of those Privé dresses are stunning; just block out the faces of the models and see what I mean.

I noticed this also in the January FW 2013/14 Men’s show photos. And in that case it struck me that the models are too young to be wearing those clothes. The black label Giorgio Armani lines are designed for buyers in the 35-55 range, and yet the models all seem to be about 18-25 – callow youths, to borrow a phrase. I would prefer to see some of those looks, like the one below, being worn by a more solid, mid-30’s model – and I own that jacket, by the way, or maybe one very like it.

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Now in that men’s collection Armani went very sporty, with tightly tailored pants and all kinds of interesting fabrics, textures and closures. But does that mean only the younger models can wear those styles? No. I don’t think some of the younger models can wear these clothes and move in a way that makes them come alive. They don’t have the physical and emotional presence to catapault those outfits into the real world. They look good, but not great.

In contrast, I saw some amazing women’s outfits in the February FW 2013/14 Women’s RTW collection, and in the SS13 RTW line , and in both those cases the models and clothes worked – the styling and line of the models blended with the nature and texture of the clothes. Look back at older shots of Armani models from the 1980’s – again they worked brilliantly, stunningly well.

My – perhaps obvious – view is that there needs to be a marriage of the clothes and the selection and styling of models wearing them, to give the garments the chance to glow and sparkle. I can imagine it is not always easy to get all the elements just right, even if you are a highly detail-oriented designer like Giorgio Armani.

But when it is right, and you see how these clothes were meant to work, they just explode off the page, and you want to have them in the real world, where they can, hopefully, work that incredible, subtle magic on your tired, lumpy, old, broken frame…

Giorgio Armani takes a Bow

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It’s amazing to me just how quickly these shows pass by. I can imagine all the work that goes into creating each piece, and each one literally flashes past you in a few seconds. I must admit a while back I thought that people taking notes at these shows was a bit much, but now I can completely understand why they need to do that – you are looking at individual pieces, but also trying to spot themes and quirks, and they come at you very fast. But even from the 5th row you can see everything quite clearly – much more clearly than these photos show. It was a very nice show, congratulations on the new collection Mr Armani.

The Giorgio Armani FW2013/14 Show in Progress

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Some interesting new looks and details – beards and waxed moustaches (I shaved off a beard this morning – typical), ruby red velour pants, quilted smoking jackets, tightly tailored pants, a large number of manbags, and I think I even spotted some spats… it’s all very Sherlock Holmes, 1893 styles and colours brought up-to-date with new materials and cuts.

Inside Teatro Armani at the Giorgio Armani FW2013/14 Runway Show

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Last night an email from WordPress reminded me it was exactly one year ago yesterday I started this blog, and here I am one year and a lot of shopping and blogging later at what must be one of the world’s premiere live events for men’s style and fashion. I have to say I am giggling slightly to be here, and enjoying the experience immensely – thanks very much, once again, to Monica and Gianluca, as well as Roberto and Stefano in Florence for allowing me to come to this event. One year ago I just wanted to track progress of a fun little project, and now I’m here watching the absolute epitome of style and elegance in person, and thousands of people hit this journal each week to find out what’s going on. To say it is a bit startling is an understatement…

Buona Sera Milano

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Back in Milan for the second time in a month, staying on Via Voghera just 2 minutes from Via Bergonone. All seems very quiet outside the Giorgio Armani offices at about 8pm, but by tomorrow I can imagine those barriers will be pressed into heavy service as the crowds throng to the highlight runway of the entire fashion week. I was interested to see The Sartorialist is also in the area, on Via Tortona just around the corner. Make sure to follow the Twitter feed (on the right of this page) for quick updates during the day tomorrow. Should be fun.

Dressing for the Giorgio Armani Fashion Show

If there is one conversation I never expected to have with myself or anyone around me, it is what to wear to one of the world’s premiere fashion shows.

And yet that is the problem I face this week… I have to figure out what to wear to the Giorgio Armani FW2013/14 show in Milan next Tuesday morning.

A phone call and email from GA contacts in Italy confirm the details of the show, travel and hotels are booked, and now I have to turn up wearing something suitable.

Naturally I will be going in almost all Giorgio Armani, that goes without saying. But:- Formal? Relaxed? A mix of the two?

I have turned to images of Mr Armani himself for some clues, and I think I am settling on a mix of informal t-shirt and cashmere sweater, plus a semi-formal smooth black suit with my favourite Prada shoes. To this I will add a recently acquired black overcoat, grey scarf and some sunglasses to add the final touches.

Meanwhile I have explained to my haircutter where I am going, and in return received almost regal attention to detail.

This is all quite strange for me – but also quite fun.